Mask Workshop

Leather mask workshop: 11 - 20 June 1999

Day 2

Movies require Quicktime

Positive of face is broken free of negative mould.

Use a table knife and a hammer.

The mould base is then built up from below with plaster so that it is stable and level and relatively easy to work on.

The mask is now built on the positive with clay. Make sure the shape of the negative is symmetrical at the edges. Make sure that there are three points of contact of the mask with the face ie 3 places where the clay is cigarette paper thin such as at the forehead and the cheeks. The clay must also disappear to nothing at the edges.

Work with the known bone structure of the head. Simplify and magnify where the character is being built. Keep it accurate and clean.

Check to make sure that the eyes are centred over the pupils. Cover all surfaces that are to receive plaster with clay. Make all edges sharp and precise. Then build a clay wall around the mask about 3cms tall keeping the edges sharp and precise still.

Make and pour plaster onto the clay positive. Blow the plaster into the fine details with your breath. When the plaster has cooled remove the mask negative carefully and clean it with water. Fill any imperfections with clay and vaseline the plaster negative mask mould. Set the mould open side up on a board using clay.

Make sure it is level top to bottom and side to side. Build up low spots with clay and make sure the edges of the mask are precisely delineated. Carve them into the plaster and clay where necessary. Build a 2 cm clay flange around the precise edges of the mask. Pour the plaster.

View a quicktime montage of the positive molds being removed from the negatives.

View a quicktime movie of mask features being added.

View a quicktime movie of mask features being added.

Send feedback to:

Bill Blaikie
Workshop organiser
Coordinator BA Communication Theatre / Media
Charles Sturt University

Paolo Consiglio's website can be visited at: www.webitaly.com/personae/welcome.html

Positive of face is broken free of negative mould.
Use a table knife and a hammer.
The mould base is then built up from below with plaster so that it is stable and level and relatively easy to work on.
The mask is now built on the positive with clay. Make sure the shape of the negative is symmetrical at the edges. Make sure that there are three points of contact of the mask with the face ie 3 places where the clay is cigarette paper thin such as at the forehead and the cheeks. The clay must also disappear to nothing at the edges.
Work with the known bone structure of the head. Simplify and magnify where the character is being built. Keep it accurate and clean.
Check to make sure that the eyes are centred over the pupils. Cover all surfaces that are to receive plaster with clay. Make all edges sharp and precise. Then build a clay wall around the mask about 3cms tall keeping the edges sharp and precise still.
Make and pour plaster onto the clay positive. Blow the plaster into the fine details with your breath. When the plaster has cooled remove the mask negative carefully and clean it with water. Fill any imperfections with clay and vaseline the plaster negative mask mould. Set the mould open side up on a board using clay.
Make sure it is level top to bottom and side to side. Build up low spots with clay and make sure the edges of the mask are precisely delineated. Carve them into the plaster and clay where necessary. Build a 2 cm clay flange around the precise edges of the mask. Pour the plaster.
View a quicktime montage of the positive molds being removed from the negatives.
View a quicktime movie of mask features being added.
View a quicktime movie of mask features being added.