Mask Workshop

Leather mask workshop: 11 - 20 June 1999

Day 9

Movies require Quicktime

Measure a length of milliner's wire so that it overlaps two cms at the top of the mask. This wire goes all the way around the inside edge of the mask. Mark with a pencil where the flaps close to on the inside of the mask.

Brush Selleys Kwipgrip glue on the inside of the flaps and up to the pencil mark. make sure all is thoroughly glued. Work the inside edge of the glued flaps with a stick to make sure all is thoroughly glued down. Cut away rough spots and overlaps on the glued flaps with a sharp gouge.

Cut eyes, nostrils and nose joins with a scalpel. Cut from the inside. Finish the eyes by cutting the eyes so that the final trim from the inside of the mask is at right angles to the edge of the eyehole. This ensures a very sharp, clean edge. The nose join is cut at a right angle at the nose endof the join. The join is stepped and scarfed. Once the joined is sharp and clean with no bulges it is glued, worked with a boning stick and finally hammered flat.

If necessary an aniline dye is mixed with metho and trialled on an offcut piece of leather. This is then applied evenly to the mask and allowed to dry. The inside of the mask is then given a light coat of shellac. Once this has dried the shellac is applied three or four times more. A light sandpapering is given between each coat.

Care and attention must be given to the edges of the mask, the eyes and the nostrils. The mask is then fitted to the face and the spots for the elastic are located at the temples, just above the ears. These are marked. Two small holes are punched in the edge of the mask at either of these points. The elastic is folded double and then stitched to the inside of the mask with linen thread. VOILA!!

Send feedback to:

Bill Blaikie
Workshop organiser
Coordinator BA Communication Theatre / Media
Charles Sturt University

Paolo Consiglio's website can be visited at: www.webitaly.com/personae/welcome.html

Measure a length of milliner's wire so that it overlaps two cms at the top of the mask. This wire goes all the way around the inside edge of the mask. Mark with a pencil where the flaps close to on the inside of the mask. Brush Selleys Kwipgrip glue on the inside of the flaps and up to the pencil mark. make sure all is thoroughly glued. Work the inside edge of the glued flaps with a stick to make sure all is thoroughly glued down. Cut away rough spots and overlaps on the glued flaps with a sharp gouge. Cut eyes, nostrils and nose joins with a scalpel. Cut from the inside. Finish the eyes by cutting the eyes so that the final trim from the inside of the mask is at right angles to the edge of the eyehole. This ensures a very sharp, clean edge. The nose join is cut at a right angle at the nose endof the join. The join is stepped and scarfed. Once the joined is sharp and clean with no bulges it is glued, worked with a boning stick and finally hammered flat. If necessary an aniline dye is mixed with metho and trialled on an offcut piece of leather. This is then applied evenly to the mask and allowed to dry. The inside of the mask is then given a light coat of shellac. Once this has dried the shellac is applied three or four times more. A light sandpapering is given between each coat. Care and attention must be given to the edges of the mask, the eyes and the nostrils. The mask is then fitted to the face and the spots for the elastic are located at the temples, just above the ears. These are marked. Two small holes are punched in the edge of the mask at either of these points. The elastic is folded double and then stitched to the inside of the mask with linen thread. VOILA!!